Taras WOLF feature article. 18th August 2024
Interesting and factual information may be provided, but our article aims to deliver insight from the perspective of a Wolfs mind and eyes.
Introduction
Painting small toy model cars was something born from the frustration of not being able to find a particular scale model in my colour of choice. Although I am quite fastidious about most things in life, I do not claim to be a true expert in the craft of painting anything. This article shares my “Why and How” with a simple and fun process that can to deliver results acceptable to WOLF standards.
Some people insist on owning every toy model car ever made based on a particular car owned in reality. Well perhaps that obsession is only with one particular Wolf?
Why collect?
Long before I owned real life-sized classics, I owned scale sized miniatures to display on a shelf that I would enjoy daily. While not fully aware at the time, I was in fact manifesting them into reality and in good time I would come to own and enjoy the real deal. However, owning the real car did not end my passion for collecting the miniatures, but instead fueled a desire to own every toy in existence that represented my life-sized one.
Why Silver?
Although I do not always own silver cars, this has always been my favorite colour when it comes the three-pointed star. We have another whole article on the merits of silver which you can go to here: https://taraswolf.com/why-does-it-have-to-be-silver/ ,but for now the short answer is that I generally only collect the toys if they are in the same colour as the life sized ones, and they are mostly in silver.
It’s amazing how many scale models are out there. Once you start, it can be a rabbit hole with a lot more toys and scales than you might expect, especially with unbranded variants. I tend to draw the line with toys that are very poor in quality, disproportionate or distorted.
Beyond silver?
I don’t think there is a Mercedes model that in toy form does not exist at one scale or another in silver. Silver is the quintessential Mercedes colour and certainly iconic with their classics. Initially the journey begins with securing toys originally produced in silver. It’s an exciting voyage of discovery across the vast oceans of online auction sites. Often a model that interest me was never produced in silver but that’s not reason enough to let it go. With a bit if skill such toys can be converted to my colour of choice.
Where to begin
It’s important to begin with a reasonably good car, but this also depends on how much time you have to invest in the restoration process. Models with very worn paint and even dints can be repaired and brought back, just as a real car would be fixed in a panel shop. Unless I’m working with a particularly rare car, I would normally begin with a car that has very little paint ware. Speaking of rarity, I don’t suggest repainting rare models but if you must then technically they should be in factory paint colours in order to preserve values.
This R107 SL by MC toys was never available in silver, and is just begging for a colour change, which would also provide an opportunity to do something about that over sized bonnet logo.
Disassembly
Most larger scale toy cars will come apart easily with screwdrivers. Older tin toys can be a bit fiddlier with folded tabs that can snap if not done with care. Most smaller models at around the match box scale are welded with small round tabs that need to be drilled out.
Next is the removal of components like the windscreens, head lamps, rear lamps, bumper bars and front grill. Sometimes they come out easily but, in many cases, will be heat welded and require cutting out with a Stanley knife. Finally, there is the removal of any stickers which can be done by melting the stickers adhesive with gentle heat from a hair dryer. When removing is too difficult or with risk of damage, the alternative is to cover with masking tape.
Painting several cars at once is more efficient, but it’s important to make sure you don’t mix or lose parts. I keep everything organised in take-away food trays.
Preparation
Many insist that existing paint be sanded back for better bonding with the new paint. Even more thorough would be to completely strip the car to bare metal and start from there. In my experience you can get away with no sanding at all on cars with good paintwork and this saves a lot of time. If the paint is worn with significant chips, then sanding is required to the affected areas and in some cases some filler may be necessary. It’s important to note that in some rare instances old paint with imperfections can react with the new. In such cases it can be very hard to achieve an acceptable finish without applying a primer undercoat first.
The original paint on this hood was reacting with the new paint. A primer was applied first before sanding and having another go with the spray can.
Using the right paint.
The best painting involves air spraying equipment and a spraying booth, but as an amateur I’m happy to settle for paint from the auto store and my back yard shed. Avoid the cheaper paints that tend to spray on thickly. I found the smaller 150g cans at the auto store to spray fine and evenly.
150g of Dupli-Color can paint several 1/18 scale cars, and plenty more if smaller.
Painting on plastic must be done with careful consideration. Unless using a water-based paint, many plastics can melt, especially if the paint is applied too liberally. I’ve had success with most plastics by spraying many very light coats, and allowing plenty of time in between coats for the paint to dry.
When spraying I always start with the underside before progressing to the exterior and always be careful not to spray too closely. Excessively thick coats of paint will struggle to dry, especially in a shed environment like mine where insects can find their way on to the wet paint. Just as with real cars, all metallic paints benefit from a final clear coat. Allow plenty of time for the metallic finish to dry prior to clear coating.
Masking requires some skill but the results are worth it when done well. Removing the tape should be done slowly, especially if the paint is thick as you risk pulling off paint on removal.
Ready for reassembly, the best part of the process.
Even with doors open there is no evidence here that this car was repainted.
That awkward and over-sized sticker was never going back on the bonnet but I also didn’t want to throw it out so it’s still there inside under the rear windscreen.
The clear coat makes a very big difference.
The finished model looks factory original.
Collectability and desirability.
An exact colour match to your real car can be ordered online, and this is especially satisfying on cars that are not silver. You may even consider colours that look better than the original and on cheaper toys I believe this can even add value. On rarities you do risk devaluing the toy, and many collectors insist on leaving the original paint alone, even if worn.
Word of the Wolf.
Repainting your toy model is not always about making it your colour of choice but also be for restoration or resale. In many cases it can be more affordable than buying a mint example. Provided it’s only the body that has ware, most cars can be brought back to mint condition and I have found the process both easy and fun. It’s especially satisfying to not feel limited by an undesirable colour, and with sad examples know that you can bring them back to life.
Disclaimer
The information in this review is intended for informational or educational purposes to provide readers an understanding of how something may be seen from a certain design perspective. In this case it is from the view point of WOLF DESIGNS. As design is subjective this review should only be considered as an independent opinion. Information further to being of an opinion is provided to the best of our knowledge based on our own research at the time of doing the review. We cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies or inconsistencies and reserve the right to change or update any content as appropriate.
The final responsibility of the design resides with the original manufacturer.